The first step is to erect scaffolding to ensure steady footing while working. To begin the installation, check the joists (existing ceiling) for level. To do this, tack a chalk line to the joist closest to the wall, string it across the ceiling to the opposing wall, pull it taught and tack it to the nearest joist at this end. Gaps between string and joists should be shimmed. Repeat this everywhere the plywood will be fastened to the joists, to ensure that the plywood will be level. Now you will nail/screw plywood (3/8" - ½") to the joists, running the length of the sheets along the length of the joists, and making certain that the edges of the plywood rest securely against a joist. This will ensure rigidity.

If installing directly over an existing ceiling (i.e. Drywall, plaster), first determine where the joists are by drilling pilot holes with a 1/8" bit, moving over an 1-1/2" at a time, until a joist is struck. From there, the joist will fall 16" or 24" on center, in both directions. Once the joists are located, the plywood can be installed.

Next snap a chalk line down the center of the room in both directions, creating a cross hair. Butting the first panel against two of the chalk lines of the cross hair, nail the first field panel into position. Overlapping the prior field panel, continue to nail adjacent field panels, (position each consequent field panel to maintain continuity of the impressions with the prior field panels). Because panels overlap, it is recommended that the panels be nailed to lap the adjacent panels at the edge farthest from the entrance, to conceal the seams. Tin snips can be used to cutout holes for light fixtures and/or air vents. When reaching the last full field panel to fit before the wall, leave the edge closest to the wall without nails.

When all of the field panels are nailed into position, measure the spaces remaining to be covered. From this, subtract for the cornice and add roughly 2" for the dimension to cut the filler panels. The filler panels will slip approximately 1" behind the last full field panel and will span to approximately 1" beyond where the cornice will start. Nail the filler panels into position, making certain to nail through the edge of the last field panels that were not nailed prior.

Now install the cornice to span from the remaining ceiling, an equal distance down the wall, nailing to both wall and ceiling to ensure a secure fastening. Overlap consequent cornice with prior cornice, working around the perimeter of the room. When mitering for corners, use a miter box, a fine toothed hacksaw and gentle unidirectional strokes. Use the same point in the cornice' pattern to begin the cuts of both adjacent pieces to ensure a symmetrical seam.

To close any non-conforming seams, using the head of a nail, gently tap until tight. Caulk can also be used to fill any openings (use clear caulk if ceiling is to remain mill finish), but be sure to wipe away any excess before drying.

The ceiling is now ready to be painted, using any latex or oil based paint. This can be accomplished by either rolling, brushing or spraying.